Chapter 2: Why we chose cotton for KUMU?

Why we chose cotton for KUMU

I grew up wearing cotton pajama sets, and I still do.

So, when I started KUMU, cotton felt like a natural choice. I already knew how it felt, how it wore, and—most importantly—how it changed over time.

Good cotton softens with washing. It breathes against the skin. And when you live in something night after night, those little differences matter.

But I also learned that “Indian cotton” isn't one particular kind of cotton.

India grows and produces a remarkable range of cotton, with different regional traditions, fibers, yarns, and weaving techniques. The result is fabric with very different characteristics—from crisp and lightweight to soft and substantial. It’s many regional traditions, each suited to a different kind of softness, strength, or weave.

Does fiber really matter?

It does.

One of the biggest differences between cotton fabrics comes down to fiber length.

Longer cotton fibers can be spun into finer, smoother yarns. They tend to have fewer loose fiber ends, which can mean a softer hand feel and less tendency to pill over time. They are also generally more expensive.

Shorter fibers can still make beautiful, durable fabric, but the resulting yarn can have more loose ends at the surface—which is one reason some cotton feels rougher than others.

For us, that distinction matters because KUMU pieces are designed to be lived in.

Why it matters for sleepwear, specifically

Cotton is naturally breathable, gentle against sensitive skin, and doesn't trap heat the way synthetic fabrics can. For pajamas that we wear against our skin for eight or more hours a night, that difference isn't small.

Why does cotton get softer with washing?

One of the things I love most about cotton is that it often gets better with time.

Washing and drying gradually relax the fabric and the yarn and repeated washing can soften the surface, giving the fabric that familiar, lived-in feel.

What does the weave have to do with it?

Quite a lot.

The same cotton fiber can feel completely different depending on how it is spun and woven.

A lighter, more open weave tends to feel airy and cool. A denser weave can feel smoother and more substantial. The weave influences how much air moves through the fabric, how it drapes, and how it feels against the skin.

So when we talk about choosing cotton, we're thinking about the fiber, the yarn, the weave, the weight—and ultimately, how all of those things come together.

Why does some cotton feel soft and some feel scratchy?

Fiber length is one part of the story.

Longer fibers generally create smoother yarns with fewer loose ends. Shorter fibers can leave more fiber ends at the surface, which can contribute to a rougher feel.

Also, a finer, tighter weave can feel smoother than a loose, coarse one, even when the underlying cotton is similar. It's a reminder that fabric is not just a material.

It's a process.

Why do some cotton fabrics feel scratchy and others feel buttery soft?

Longer fibers mean fewer loose fiber ends poking out of the yarn. Shorter fibers have more loose ends, which is what your skin feels as "scratchy."

Thread count and weave also matter: a tighter, finer weave generally feels smoother than a loose, coarse weave, independent of fiber quality.

100% cotton is breathable, absorbent, and biodegradable — though it wrinkles more easily than fabrics blended with synthetics. That tradeoff is one we're happy to make.

Soft on the skin, gentle on the planet, and woven, quite literally, into where we come from.